6.08.2015

Taiwan's greatest hits: 8 things to do, see, and eat


I'm flying from my expat home [Taiwan] back to my native home [the USA] right now. since I already got a little misty-eyed reflecting on my time as an expat last week, it seems like now is an appropriate time to share this post of my favorite things to do in Taiwan. I'm spending a few weeks in the states and plan to enjoy every minute. but the past three years have built a special place in my heart for Taiwan, and I know I will be feeling at least a little homesick in a few weeks.

that's just a part of expat life I think - you'll create so many "homes" around the world that you always feel a little homesick for somewhere.

but back to the point: what should you do when you visit Taiwan? the options to explore can be overwhelming. Taiwan is a small island jam-packed with amazing temples, gorgeous mountains, and incredible food. I still haven't been able to explore everything in 3 years.

one of my favorite things to do in Taiwan is play tour guide when friends and family come to visit - giving me a chance to be a tourist too! this little island is surprisingly full of things to do, see, and eat. I've compiled a list of 8 of the things that are always a hit with my visitors, and should be on your "must-do" list if you ever visit Taiwan.

Go Dragon Hunting

Taiwan is known for having the highest number of temples per capita in the world [also - convenience stores, but I think that's unrelated.] there are plenty of famous temples you can visit, such as Longshan Temple in Taipei or the Confucius Temple in Kaohsiung. but with temples around every corner, my favorite way to show them off is to simply walk around the neighborhood and see what we can find. as many temples in Taiwan are topped with colorful dragons made of ceramic tiles, I have dubbed this activity "dragon hunting."

Wander through a Night Market

night markets are a big deal in Asia, and Taiwan is no exception. these markets are not for the faint of heart - massive crowds, winding alleys, and overwhelming smells abound. but the market is the perfect place for buying souvenirs and late-night snacks. the most popular [and crowded] is the Shilin Night Market in Taipei, but if you're a seafood lover you may want to hop a train north to the smaller market in Keelung. pro tip: most of these markets are open during the daytime on weekends as well.

Hike Taroko Gorge

Taroko National Park is one of the most beautiful places in Taiwan [gorgeous even, if you'll allow the pun!] Taiwan is actually a very mountainous little island, and this marble gorge is my favorite place to hike with visitors. I would advise renting a scooter or car, and driving back into to gorge past the main tourist sites for a hike on the Baiyang Waterfall trail. the further into the park you go, the fewer tour buses you will see and the more blue the water gets.

Eat Dumplings at Din Tai Fung

dumplings are available on every corner here, but if you want to impress your visitors with the best, take them to Din Tai Fung. the signature dish here is the soup dumpling. otherwise known as xiao long bao, these special dumplings have a soup paste tucked into them when they are formed, which melts to form a delicious broth when the dumplings are steamed. chefs train for years to perfect the art of making these dumplings, each of which have 18 perfect folds to seal them shut.

Climb Taipei 101

or really I should say: ride the world's fastest elevator up to the top of Taipei 101. this isn't the world's tallest building anymore, but I'm still impressed at the engineering they devised to keep 101 standing through typhoon winds and earthquakes we experience here. Taipei doesn't have an impressive skyline, but I love they way the buildings blend into the surrounding mountains.

Attend a Taiwanese Baseball Game

America claims baseball as it's national pastime, but the fans in Taiwan are truly fanatical. imagine being in a packed stadium, where the crowd chants and cheers and waves flags and noisemakers... for the entire nine innings. each team has a designated cheer-leader who screams into a megaphone from atop the dugout. my favorite cheer? jiayou - literally, "add gas!"

Ride the Maokong Gondola

Taiwan is known for its tea plantations, and the Maokong area to the southeast of Taipei is easily accessible by the subway system. want an afternoon escape from the hustle of Taipei? take the Hello Kitty themed gondola up to the top, wander the hillside trails [and temples], sample the local brews at a a teahouse, and watch the sunset over Taipei on the ride back down.

Explore Yehliu Geopark

visiting this geological park on Taiwan's northern coast feels a bit like a trip to the moon. the various rock formations here have been shaped over time by the winds and tides of the Pacific Ocean. some of the rocks have become famous for their shapes - the Queen's Head and Fairy's Shoes to name a few. I would also recommend hiking further back into the park for ocean views and fewer tourists.


if you ever find yourself in Taiwan [and I hope you do!] be sure to add these items to your must-do list. of course, this is only the beginning of what you can explore here. I'm sure that during the next few years of living in Taipei and exploring more of Taiwan, this list will be expanding!

if you are interested in learning more about these locations, check out my Taiwan travels page for a list of related posts.

this post originally appeared on the Overseas Escape

6.05.2015

expat confessions: reflections on 3 years abroad


I'm only leaving Taiwan for a few weeks. but with our move and my flight to the US looming this weekend, I'm getting all nostalgic. this is my third year living in Taiwan, the third time I've been an expat returning to the states for summer, the third time I've had to calculate how much space to leave in my suitcase for bringing things back with me.

but this year is a little different. I have to be packed in advance, since tomorrow a moving truck is carting all of our things to Taipei. when I return, our home will be there - not here. and just to make things interesting, I'm flying back to the states on monday. 48 hours after we do this moving thing.

maybe this sounds crazy to you. or maybe you think it's no big deal. but I can tell you that for me, it is a HUGE deal. three years ago I would not have been able to handle this. I would be curled in a ball on the couch right now, probably crying into a beer, so stressed that I couldn't breathe.

but instead I'm sitting here in Starbucks typing. [sure I forgot to bring my headphones and some dude stole "my" spot. but at least the volume on the playlist today is low enough that I can think.] all the dishes are clean and the dirty laundry hamper is empty. there's a detailed list on my phone of what to buy this summer, so I won't have to try remembering what I left behind. crates and boxes of things are stacked around the apartment waiting for the movers. I have a small but coordinated pile of clothing that will go into my suitcase to the states.

I'm not saying that the past few weeks have been a breeze. but the level of anxiety I've felt and the number of panicked moments have been significantly less than what used to be "normal" for me. and I know that it has been our time abroad that has facilitated this change. it allowed me to grow as a person, and the freedom to [98% of the time] be uniquely myself because I'm in a place where I'll never blend in.

and honestly, I've started to notice that people really don't notice as much as you'd think.

aside from this - for which I will be eternally grateful to Taiwan - there are a handful of other lessons [both good and bad] I have learned here. and, well... you had to have known that at some point this post would devolve into a list. so here are my words of wisdom gained from my 3 years of expat life, and just general thoughts as my pre-travel brain tries to put off packing the last of things.


travel will change you, but only if you let it. keep an open mind and an open heart. anything can be an adventure if you choose to see it that way.

in 80% of situations, the language barrier can be overcome by smiling, nodding, and hand gestures.

the best way to find yourself is to get lost. this is true in both a literal and metaphorical sense. [just be sure you have a working cell phone and money for a cab in case it takes a little longer than you anticipated.]

always be aware of the toilet situation. most of the world - even in Europe - does not always use the American restroom setup. sometimes there will be the option of [or only] squat toilets. sometimes you won't be able to flush toilet paper. other times, you'll have to pay for toilet paper. and sometimes toilet paper will just not be there. bring tissue packs, and know what you're walking into.

in my experience, you'll never regret paying more for the direct flight.

some days will be an adventure, in the best of ways. and some days you will need to hide in your apartment and pretend you don't live someplace so strange. some days you will miss home so much it hurts. and some days you'll consider never going back. that's all normal.

it's ok to spend $80 on a bread maker and $12 on each bag of gluten free bread mix. in fact, it sounds downright reasonable when you're on the verge of tears because you just want a damn grilled cheese. some days it will feel like you have nothing you need. and others, that you have everything. because when you realize that all you want your mom to mail for your birthday is vitamins and deodorant - that's ok, too.


living abroad had shown me some of the best and worst things about being an American in this world. I was born to privilege that so many take for granted, and many back home don't understand why I would give "that" up. I've even been told that moving abroad means I've relinquished my right to express an opinion on or even care about my home country.

I've encountered other Americans on my travels that have made me ashamed to show my passport. I've encountered cultures who idolize us as "the land of opportunity" and cultures who demonize us as the land of "meddlesome cowboys." I've been mistaken for a Canadian and [a time or two] pretended that I actually was.

I don't love everything about America. but I'm not about to renounce my citizenship. [there's a lot of things I don't love about expat life, too.] though I don't currently live there, I am grateful for being an American. in 95% of the world I am granted entry and acceptance into a country just based on my passport. and I'm glad that I can come from the life I had, and appreciate everything else I've been able to see.


some friends are meant to drift apart over time, but nothing brings this on more quickly than moving abroad. lots of your friends and family will say "I'm totally coming to visit" but most won't. lots of your friends and family will say "let's catch up on Skype!" and few will, but most won't be able to find the time, at least not often.

you'll quickly discover which friends are meant to stick around - the ones who listen and accept, even when they don't understand. the ones who will sit up all night with you, no matter how long it's been since you've seen each other last. and you'll appreciate them all the more.

and that moment where you want to text your best friend for an opinion and she's asleep because it's the middle of the night on the other side of the world? that's when you learn how to decide for yourself. [and maybe text her for reassurance anyway.]

I've made new friends too. I've met people from all over the world, who have experienced both wildly different and eerily similar things. had we met in another place and time, we might not have become friends. but our common struggles as expats have brought us together. that - and Thanksgiving potlucks, forming a scooter gang, ghost festival KTV, Cards Against Humanity, and that time we accidentally stayed in a love motel. I'm so grateful for the people who have made this place feel like home.

the effect of expat life on my marriage has been profound. not that it was necessarily bad before - but sometimes we look back at our relationship and cringe. the level of trust and intensity of communication we were forced to develop when we moved abroad has brought us closer than ever. when your entire on-hand support system is whittled down to one person, it can be a lot to deal with. but we've figured out how to balance honest communication with personal boundaries, to be clear about our needs and when to ask for help. we've both grown through this experience, and thankfully we've grown in the same direction.


but the biggest lessons, and the biggest changes, have been within myself. I've redefined who I am and how I see the world. I've changed my thoughts on my self-worth and gained a boatload of confidence through the challenges I've faced. I still have days that I struggle - because I am human - but those days are fewer and the struggles different. I know now that I am capable of things beyond my wildest dreams. and I know what it is that really matters to me, and what I can live without.

there have certainly been moments when I doubted our decision to move abroad, but it has turned out to be one the best things in my life. from the people it has brought me to the places it has taken me - these past 3 years will be ones I hold forever dear.

thanks for following along on this journey... and for making it to the end of this post.
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