visiting Taiwan: a guide on what to expect

what should I expect when I visit Taiwan?

for the final installment in my tips for visiting Taiwan series, I want to answer a few questions about what to expect during your time in Taiwan. many people [myself included] haven't had much education on Taiwan, and can be pretty clueless before they arrive. below I've tried to give you some background on Taiwan, answer the random questions I usually receive about life here, and give a few helpful hints I wish someone had told me as a newbie in this country.

a complicated history

while the island of Taiwan has been inhabited by indigenous tribes for thousands of years, the modern world first discovered it in 1544. Portugese sailors were the first Europeans to land here, and called Taiwan the Ilha Formosa, meaning "Beautiful Island." Formosa was then colonized by both the Dutch and Spanish before Chinese forces claimed the island in the late 1600s. Taiwan was ceded to the Japanese in 1895, until the end of World War II. at this time, the established Republic of China government in mainland China was fighting a civil war against Mao Zedong and the communist uprising. the ROC government, led by Chiang Kai-shek, established itself in Taiwan in 1949 after relinquishing control of mainland to Mao and the communists [who established a new government called the People's Republic of China or PRC.]

it gets even more complicated from there. in the second half of the 20th century Taiwan went through several bloody events, government corruption, a fallout with the UN, and the eventual rise of democracy. though some in China claim Taiwan is still a territory of the PRC, and some in Taiwan claim that mainland is property of the ROC, both have been operating as an independent nations since 1949. Taiwan's government is now democratically elected, they have their own currency [the New Taiwan Dollar] and they require a separate visa for tourists to enter. the simplest way I can explain things: Taiwan is not China, even if their independence is not formally recognized by most of the world powers.

this is an extreme simplification of the island's history, and clearly a limited explanation based on my [probably biased] personal understanding. opinions on the subject most definitely vary. but I hope it explains the unique blend of cultures that have influenced Taiwan over the years, and gives you a bit of background.

your basic Taiwan facts

Taiwan resides north of the equator on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, slightly east of China, north of the Philippines, and southwest of Japan and Korea. it is bisected by the Tropic of Cancer. Taiwan is in the UTC + 8 time zone and does not follow daylight savings. the capital city is Taipei, the official language is Mandarin, and the population is just under 24 million. if there was a national dish - it would probably be beef noodle [though whether clear broth or spicy dark broth may never be agreed upon.] the date is listed year / month / day, typically using the ROC calendar year. since this system was established in 1912 [year one] that means 2015 is usually seen as 104.

English in Taiwan

while Mandarin is the official language, many people speak at least a little bit of English. most of the younger generation have grown up attending after-school English programs, or attended university in America. you will find more English in cities like Taipei, Hsinchu, and Kaohsuing, which have more international businesses and population. many public signs, the high speed rail, and Taipei's MRT are labeled in both Mandarin and English.

the short story is that in most situations you can get by with English and hand gestures. if a cash register doesn't have an electronic display to tell you the total, many cashiers will type numbers into a calculator and show you. but the best course of action is to assume that both everyone and no one understands English. what I mean by that is: don't be rude and expect someone to know English, but be polite when speaking because you never know when someone will understand you.

for another perspective, check out this article - intended for prospective expats but still relevant to tourists:  I want to move to Taiwan, but I don't speak Mandarin

attitude towards foreigners

this one is a little tricky - because each person has their own feelings and your experience as a tourist can vary greatly depending on who you encounter and what kind of traveler you are. generally speaking, Taiwan has a friendly and welcoming culture. if you treat others with kindness and respect, that is what you will likely receive in return. I can't guarantee you will have a 100% positive experience - you may even have an extremely negative incident occur. but that's just part of traveling, and part of interacting with the human population.

convenience store culture

Taiwan has more than 10,000 convenience stores. and they sell so much more than soft drinks and candy bars. most will offer ATMs, some have restrooms, seating areas, or even copy machines. you can order a taxi, ship packages, buy tickets for the train, concerts or sporting events. they carry basic toiletries and sometimes even clothing items. and the food selections are much better than in the US: from sushi to salad and sandwiches, cups of fruit and an assortment of Taiwan delicacies. personally, I prefer Family Mart. 7-11 is a close second, while the other brands [Hi-Life, OK Mart] are usually less appealing in their selections. if you find yourself in need of a cheap, quick meal or some water [or beer] you won't have to walk far to find a store.

the toilet situation

when traveling through Asia, this topic can't be avoided. Taiwan [especially in Taipei] seems to have a fair amount of western-style toilets even for public use. if you are in a newer building, a hotel or department store, MRT station or western chain restaurant you won't have a problem finding one. most homes and apartments in Taiwan have western style toilets. when I moved to Taiwan I went months before ever seeing a squat toilet. but they do exist here, and in some places are your only option.

if you want to avoid squatting, pay attention to the signs on the stall doors. most restrooms mark them with little picture plaques of what kind is inside. you can also cheat and use the handicapped stall. but really, squat toilets aren't that bad.

regardless of which way you go: I would advise carrying tissue packs just in case - some restrooms don't provide toilet paper, or keep only one roll near the entrance and you have to remember to grab before going into your stall. some restrooms do not have soap, so hand sanitizer would also be wise. public restrooms are widely available: train stations, parks, temples, etc will offer facilities [though they may not be the most clean or modern.] no matter where you go, please follow the instructions - some restrooms will ask you not to flush toilet paper and provide waste receptacles for use.

drinking water

I know people who have drunk the tap water without issue, but I wouldn't recommend it. even most locals I know drink only filtered or bottled water. it's completely safe to brush your teeth with and you shouldn't panic if you swallow some by accident. the tap water in Taipei is supposedly ok to drink, but who knows what's in the pipes. any time you spot a public drinking fountain it will be treated and the quality regulated, so feel free to refill your bottle. restaurants will only serve you drinkable water, and the ice will be ok too.

night markets and food

Taiwan is a foodie culture - but in an utterly unpretentious way. there are high end establishments on the island, but most people agree the best food is found in night markets and tiny shops. while you're here be sure to sample some classic dishes such as beef noodle, gua bao, stinky tofu, ji-pai, pineapple cakes, fish ball soup, xiao long bao, pearl milk tea, and shaved ice. if you want to know what's good - just look for the line of locals. [for specific restaurants, I refer you to a hungry girl's guide to Taipei.]

dining out in Taiwan

the first thing you have to understand about dining out in Taiwan is that this is a culture of "family style" eating. the ideal Taiwanese meal involves family and friends circled around the table, a dozen dishes, and small glasses of Taiwan beer which are refilled often. even at western restaurants you will see people splitting entrees, trying bites of every plate.

with that in mind: meals are not timed to come out together. and you just have to deal with it. person A's hamburger is going to come out before person B's salad and person C won't get their french fries until everyone else is finished eating. it's just the way it works here.

you should also note that Taiwan is not a country where you tip the wait staff. I've tried on occasion, and have been chased down and forced to accept my money back. if you are dining at a higher end restaurant they will add a service charge to your bill, usually 10%. a few places that cater to tourists have started adding a space on your credit card receipt for a tip, so you can use that if you like - but it's not required [or expected.] some restaurants will keep your bill on the table, crossing items off as they are delivered. others you may have to flag your waiter down for the check. usually you will pay up front at the register [and many times only in cash] but if you are unsure your waiter should direct you.

visiting temples in Taiwan

the scent of wafting incense and a riot of color awaits you at any of the dragon-topped Taoist temples in Taiwan. Buddhist and Confucian temples are less ornate, but no less stunning. you won't make it very far in your travels without spotting one - this island boasts the most temples per capita of any nation on the globe. temples in Taiwan are a photographer's dream [um, in case you hadn't noticed my obsession] and thankfully pictures are not offensive, so long as you are respectful of those worshipping.

museums and monuments

there's no shortage of cultural or historical museums in Taiwan. depending which city you're in, you can find museums featuring everything from Taiwanese aboriginal art, glass making, astronomy, Chinese antiquities, modern art, to postage stamps and drinking water. many of these museums will include English signage, though the translations may be a little... interesting. admission is usually cheap [less than 300 NT or $10 US] or sometimes free.

baseball fanaticism

Taiwan loves baseball. if you visit during the season I would highly recommend attending a game. the Chinese Professional Baseball League only has 4 teams right now, but they travel around all the stadiums on the island. the crowds are extremely loyal to their teams and spend the entire game chanting and cheering, usually with noisemakers and megaphones. the atmosphere is completely different than American baseball games - and a great way to see the usually reserved Taiwanese get rowdy.

hiking in Taiwan

the majority of Taiwan's land mass is unpopulated mountain. even in the largest city of Taipei, mountains are all around you. and the Taiwanese love to climb them. you will find extensive hiking trails on taller peaks, with over 100 mountains on the island over 3,000 feet. [most of these, however, require permits to climb.] most lower elevations near populated areas feature paved trails with stone steps. don't be surprised if you see an elderly man or woman speed past you while you make your climb... they probably take that trail every morning. the mosquitos can be bad [if you're someone like me who gets bit often] so wear bug spray, and always be cautious of wasps and venomous snakes.

bicycling

one of the major sports on the island is cycling. routes can be found all around, both in and between cities, and some companies even offer bike tours that circle the island. many roads have designated bike lanes, while larger cities have often hundreds of kilometers of dedicated bike-only paths. Taipei, New Taipei City, and Taichung offer a bike sharing program called YouBike which allows you to rent bicycles for very reasonable rates. the bikes can be rented in one station and returned to any other location [over 150 stations in Taipei City alone] and the website or app will tell you how many bikes or parking spots are currently located at each station.

birds and butterflies

natives and visitors alike enjoy watching the birds and butterflies in Taiwan. there are over 500 species of birds recorded here, and many can be seen from parks even within Taipei city limits [try the Taipei Botanical Gardens or Guandu Nature Park.] while some butterflies stay on the island year-round, Taiwan is famous as a viewing spot for several major migrations. in some areas, the butterflies are so numerous that nets are set up over the highways to keep the insects from being damaged by traffic. even if you visit Taiwan for other reasons, keep your eyes peeled [especially November through March.] if you encounter a group of photographers in a park, take a peek where they are pointing their lenses and you might find an interesting creature.

so why don't more people travel to Taiwan? 

I honestly don't know. this island seems to be Asia's best kept secret. but I do know that if you take a chance and visit, you're very likely to fall in love. it might be the dumplings, it might be the dragons... but Taiwan will steal a piece of your heart.

this post is the fourth in a series of tips for visiting Taiwan. for more information, please see:
part 1: a guide on what to pack
part 2: a guide on how to travel
part 3: a guide on where to go + what to see
part 4: a guide on what to expect [this post]

if you have any questions I haven't covered here, please feel free to let me know! there may end up being a part 5 / FAQ post at some point in the future.

visiting Taiwan: where to go and what to see

where should I travel to when visiting Taiwan?

Taiwan is a small island with a lot to offer. where in Taiwan you should plan to visit - and likewise, what to see and do while there - will of course depend on your own personal preferences and how much time you have. today I'm going to lay out some of my favorites and a few highly recommended places that you should consider adding to your itinerary.

Taipei

this city of nearly 3 million [over 7 million in the metro area] is the country's capital and pretty much an unavoidable stop when visiting Taiwan. not that you would want to avoid Taipei - in fact, I would recommend basing your Taiwan travels from here. while there is plenty to see in the city itself, Taipei also connects you to the high speed rail for west coast access and TRA for the east coast.

Taipei is a modern city with an amazing public transit system, but also ancient temples and green mountains.  I've already written a list of 101 things to do in Taipei. while that's more than enough to keep you busy, I thought that pointing out a few favorites would be helpful.

guidebook classics

I like to think of these as "the big five" attractions in Taipei. they are on every to-see list and while definitely crowded and perhaps a bit overrated, still worthwhile if you have the time.

Taipei 101 + observatory: city views and high-end shopping in [formerly] the world's tallest building // Taipei 101 MRT stop
Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall: an impressively sized monument to Taiwan's leader, surrounded by manicured gardens and the National Theatre // CKS Memorial hall MRT stop
Longshan Temple: one of the busiest and most famous temples in Taiwan // Longshan Temple MRT 
Shilin Night Market: a sprawling and crowded street food lover's dream // Jiantan MRT
National Palace Museum: arguably the world's greatest collection of Chinese art and antiquities // Jiantan MRT stop + cab or bus

Taipei temples

Guandu Temple: a massive complex on the Tamsui river, complete with a cave-like tunnel full of Buddhas // Guandu MRT stop
Songshan Ciyou: one of the oldest and most fantastically ornate in Taipei // Songshan MRT stop
Confucious Temple: dedicated to the famous scholar, with tours and info // Yuanshan MRT stop
Dalongdong Baoan Temple: UNESCO award-winning for historical preservation // Yuanshan MRT stop

hikes in Taipei

Seven Star Mountain: the highest peak in northern Taiwan with stunning 360 views of the ocean coast and the city // Yangmingshan National Park by bus
Jiantan Trail: explore temples and shrines while taking in views of downtown // Jiantan MRT stop
Elephant Mountain: a short climb up steep steps offers the city's best view of Taipei 101 // Xiangshan MRT stop
Battleship Rock: climb up and down in less than an hour, or continue over to Beitou on the Junjian Yan trail // Shipai MRT stop

notable neighborhoods, etc

Ximending: hip shops and colorful street art abound // Ximen MRT stop
Huashan 1914 Creative Park: old winery complex turned photographer's dream - filled with cute shops, cafes, and exposed brick // Zhongxiao Xinsheng MRT stop
Beitou: an old Japanese resort town known for hot springs and geothermal activity // Beitou MRT stop
Raohe Night Market: a great [less crowded] alternative to Shilin // Songshan MRT stop

day trips from Taipei

you can easily spend a full or half day exploring the areas outside of the city. these destinations below [as well as many others] can be reached by bus, MRT, or TRA trains.

Juifen: the famously picturesque model town for the Spirited Away movie - red lanterns galore
Maokong: ride a gondola up to tea plantations in the mountains overlooking the city
Wulai: an aboriginal town featuring natural hot springs and a stunning waterfall
Houtong: an old mining town recently famous for its abundance of stray cats
Yehliu Geopark: crazy rock formations to explore on the northern coast of Taiwan

and now, for the rest of the island...

Hsinchu

it's not really known as a tourist destination, but having lived there for three years I just can't not mention Hsinchu. exploring this city and the surrounding mountainous county is best done with your own set of wheels. there are temples downtown [Jhulian and the City God's] as well as an ancient gate and moat, but one of my favorite odd places is the Pu Tian Temple and Guqifeng statue garden. this temple is surrounded by statue-filled gardens of a surprising nature: Buddhas of every shape and size, old shoes, zebras, sphinxes, and even a replica of the statue of liberty.

further east towards the mountains you can find the small towns of Emei and Beipu - worth a visit for the temples and the cold spring. past Beipu you will encounter mountain peaks covered in hiking trails and temples both: Wu Zhi Shan [Five Finger Mountain] and Shitou Shan [Lion's Head Mountain] being the most popular. for those not planning to rent a car or scooter, there is a tourist bus that runs to Lion's Head from the Hsinchu High Speed Rail station. this would make for a long [but doable] day trip from Taipei.

Taroko Gorge

there's a reason why Taroko National Park is Taiwan's biggest tourism draw. this gorge carved from marble, with stunning blue waters flowing between green mountains, is stunning year-round. take a hike up the Baiyang Waterfall Trail, stroll through the swallow grotto, and explore the Xiangde Temple. you can lodge in the nearby city of Hualien [also known for beaches] or choose from a handful of accommodations out in the gorge. getting out into the park involves booking a tour bus, private taxi for the day, or renting your own wheels.

Alishan

though it isn't the highest peak in Taiwan, it may be the most famous. Alishan National Scenic Area is a mountain resort town dating back to the Japanese occupation when it used to part of a logging system. you can hike trails here or ride the antique forest train - but the major draw is the sunrise view. wake up early to travel by local train or hike up to Chushan, [or ride the minibus to Tatajia] and if the weather is right you'll be rewarded with a view of the sun breaking over a sea of clouds. to get out to Alishan you can take a bus which departs twice daily from from the Chaiyi high speed rail, or have more bus time options at the regular Chaiyi train station. the famous Alishan Railway was damaged a few years back and has been under repairs - the best info I could find states that a train from Chaiyi will only go as far as Fenchihu.

Kenting

this town on the southernmost tip of Taiwan is known for it's beaches and nightlife. my advice: skip the crowded South Bay and Kenting Beach and head to the quietly gorgeous Little Bay. if you aren't up for swimming, surfing, or snorkeling - go explore Kenting National Park's hiking, hot springs, and lighthouse instead. you won't go hungry here: the night market spans the entire length of downtown. I also highly recommend Piccolo Polpo for an incredible meal, and On the Table for crazy but delightful cocktails.

Sun Moon Lake

Sun Moon Lake is a scenic area tucked into the mountains in central/west Taiwan. many go to escape the summer heat, snap iconic photos of the blue water while on a boat tour, for hiking and biking, to ride the cable car or visit the Formosan Aboriginal Culture Village [which is actually somewhat of an amusement park.] there are a handful of lodging options available though cuisine options are limited. if you are traveling along the west coast, you can catch a bus from the high speed rail station in Taichung.

East Taiwan, Taitung, Lanyu and Green Island

the east coast of Taiwan is less developed than the west, and driving down to Taitung on highway 11 offers stunning views of cliffs dropping into blue seas on one side, with lush jungle and mountains on the other. or you might take highway 9, making a detour to hike the Walami Trail or explore the high mountains of Yushan National Park. exploring these areas is best done with your own transportation - whether that's a car, scooter, or bicycle is up to you.

Taitung itself isn't a big draw for tourists, but it is the largest city in southeast Taiwan. from there you can access gorgeous beaches, hot springs, and hiking up and down the coast. or hop a ferry [or plane] to Green Island or Lanyu / Orchid Island - both known for coral reefs, volcanic rock formations, and some interesting recent history. these islands are paradise for scuba, snorkeling, and seafood lovers. Green Island boasts one of the world's three saltwater hot springs, while Lanyu is home to the Yami tribe. though the scenery is stunning, the islands are a bit remote. many travelers opt for the beaches of Kenting instead.

suggested Taiwan itineraries

this is the essential question: how much time do you have? if you only have a few days to spend, I would recommend basing your adventures in Taipei. the city offers easy transportation and an endless variety of temples, museums and food. and bonus: you can still access mountains, waterfalls, and tea plantations with less than an hour's travel from downtown.

if you have a week, you could start in Taipei and take a few day trips to the surrounding areas while exploring downtown. a trip along the east coast to Taroko [one or two nights] would be lovely break from the city bustle. or you can opt to take the high speed rail to Kaohsiung and head to Kenting, perhaps stopping for a night at Alishan or Sun Moon Lake along the way.

with two weeks or more, you could easily tackle a round-the-island trip. you might choose to add in stops at Kaohsiung or Taichung - I haven't covered these cities here but they still offer plenty to see. you could relax with a few days on Green Island [or any other of the dozen smaller islands surrounding Taiwan.] or you could simply take time to try crossing off everything on this Taipei bucketlist.

this post is the third in a series of tips for visiting Taiwan. for more information, please see:
part 1: a guide on what to pack
part 2: a guide on how to travel
part 3: a guide on where to go + what to see [this post]

part 4: a guide on what to expect

visiting Taiwan: a guide on how to travel

so you've decided to visit Taiwan.

first, let me say: good choice! Taiwan is one of the most overlooked destinations in Asia. many travelers don't realize just how much this island has to offer. Taiwan has blue beaches and green mountains, marble gorges and tall forests, colorful temples and mouthwatering cuisine. but before we talk about the destinations in Taiwan you should visit - let's discuss the insanely clean, organized, and efficient transportation system that will take you to all these wonders.

arriving in Taiwan

the island has a number of smaller airports, but the major hubs are Taoyuan International Airport / TPE and Kaohsuing International Airport / KHH. most travelers arrive at Taoyuan and make their way to Taipei [just north of the airport] by taxi for about 1200 to 1500NT, shuttle bus to Taipei Main Station for about 85 to 140NT, or by connecting by transfer bus to the high speed rail [30NT bus fare, 160NT HSR.] for the past few years they have been working on a train line to connect the high speed rail to the airport, and the latest update says it should open December 2015.

if you plan to travel within Taiwan by air, most major cities have an airport. however, the island is small and rail options are abundant. I would advise getting around the island by other means once you arrive.

do I need a visa to enter Taiwan?

the Bureau of Consular Affairs and Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Taiwan has a list of countries that qualify for visa-exempt entry. the United States, UK, Australia, Canada, Japan, and most of Europe are on this list and citizens qualify for a 90-day stay, with no fees on arrival. you can find more information about visas here and remember to please double check with your own country's regulations if you have a question. [also important to note: Taiwan is the Republic of China, and a visa that allows you into mainland China / the People's Republic of China is not valid for entry here.]

get yourself an easycard

traveling around the island can be a breeze if you're prepared. Taiwan's public transit system is clean, efficient, and inexpensive. to be honest - this is my preferred way to get around. you can purchase an easycard in any Taipei Metro station, from a machine or the person at the service counter. the easycard requires a 100NT deposit and you can add value to be used for subway or bus fare, purchases at 7-11 or even Starbucks. otherwise you will need to carry exact change for buses, and buy a subway token each time you'd like to ride the MRT. there's a reason why they named it easy card.

public transit etiquette in Taiwan

behavior on the buses and trains is different from many other countries I've traveled to [and places I've lived in - ahem, New York.] for the most part, people are orderly and stand in lines. there are special seating areas for elderly, injured, or pregnant passengers. and the biggest difference: everyone is quiet. sure, some people have hushed conversations. but most are just sitting, or texting on their phones. they don't play loud music or yell to each other down the car. and if you make a lot of noise? you'll get the stink eye. my best advice is to be quiet and respectful, and to follow the rules.

MRT: Mass Rapid Transit

the Taipei Metro subway system is hands down the cleanest and most efficient I've seen worldwide. no food or drink are allowed, the trains stop in the exact same spot every time, and there are designated waiting areas where people line up to board the trains. all stations are equipped with English signage, tell you how long until the next train arrives, and have helpful maps that show you the location of the station and where each exit leads into the surrounding neighborhood. as I mentioned last week, they also offer free wi-fi. [note that Kaohsiung also has an MRT system, though it is less extensive.]

when to take the MRT: anytime! trains on the Taipei Metro run from 6am to around midnight, depending on the stop. you will scan your card [or pre-paid token] when entering the station, and scan again [or deposit your token] when exiting at your destination. using your easycard will give you a fare discount.

riding the bus

outside of Taipei and Kaohsiung, the public bus system is your best bet for getting around a city. there are a handful of apps out there that will help you make sense of things, and google maps is usually pretty accurate on using buses. many stops have signs that estimate when the next bus arrives. I've grown to love taking the bus - most days. the time tables are not always accurate, and on smaller buses I've had issues with drivers only making requested stops. but 95% of the time the bus will get you where you need to go.

and as Felix pointed out in the comments, you can also take buses between major cities or to tourist destinations. for those you should buy your tickets ahead of time at the bus station.

when to take the bus: when your destination is a hike from the MRT line, the bus is more direct, or when you are in a city without MRT service. the bus usually has a sign that tells you to pay on boarding or alighting - when in doubt do what everyone else is doing. swipe your easycard to pay or carry exact change [typically 15NT per ride.]

TRA: Taiwan Railways Administration

the TRA rail system in Taiwan connects all the island's major cities in a giant loop, with a few offshoots for special tourist destinations. it is also crazy affordable. when I think of how much I used to pay to ride New Jersey Transit from Princeton to Penn Station, I cringe. [traveling from Hsinchu to Taipei is about the same distance, for a tenth of the price.] there are several companies that operate trains, with varying stops along the routes and thus varying trip times and prices. many trains have assigned seating. make sure to hold on to your ticket, as you will need to scan it both to enter and exit your station.

when to take the TRA: if you're traveling to anywhere on the east coast of Taiwan from Taipei, or out to a tourist destination from a High Speed Rail station. you can also take the TRA to save money if you have the time. if you plan to travel on a weekend or holiday, book your tickets in advance. this website has some great info and photos explaining how the TRA booking system works.

THSR: Taiwan High Speed Rail

I don't know how else to say it: I love Taiwan's high speed rail system. not yet a decade old, this line runs down the west coast of Taiwan from Taipei to Kaohsiung [Zuoying.] that's about the same distance between New York and Washington DC - and the high speed rail can get you there in an hour and a half. the cost is about 3 times that of the TRA and the trains don't circle the island, but I always think it's worth the price to get there in half the time or less. the HSR also does reserved seating [as well as a few cars for non-reserved.] you should also hold on to your ticket while riding, as you will need to scan to both enter and exit.

when to take the high speed rail: anytime you're moving up and down the west coast. connect through Taipei Main Station or ask a cab driver to take you to the gaotie: gow [like "cow] tee - a [like the letter "a"] and be prepared for speeds up to 300km/hr.

taking a cab in Taiwan

as much as I like to sing the praises of public transit, sometimes you just want to take a cab. most drivers will be able to get you to your destination if you show them an address or map on your smartphone [even better if you have the address in Chinese.] I like to pick up business cards to hand the drivers, since the address is usually in Mandarin. cabs in Taiwan are cheaper than Europe or the US, with the [plentiful] cabs in Taipei being cheaper than the rest of the island. some cab companies will also allow you to hire a driver for 4 or 8 hours - rates depending but around 1500 to 2500NT from my experience. ask your hotel to arrange this.

when to take a cab: when you are in Taipei and going somewhere far from the MRT or bus, have luggage with you, or late at night coming home. you might also consider a cab if you have to wait 20 minutes for the bus and are running late. and of course cabs will get you around other cities when public transport is lacking.

renting a car or scooter

if [and only if] you are in possession of an international driver's permit, you might consider renting a scooter or car for your travels in Taiwan. this country is a right-hand side driving country, with speed limits posted in kilometers per hour. if you are scooting, wearing a helmet is required by law. scooters, buses, and the ubiquitous blue trucks seem to rule the road here in Taiwan. if you do decide to drive here I can't stress enough: be careful.

when to drive yourself: if you are planning to go off the beaten track, having your own wheels can be useful. much of central Taiwan is inaccessible by public transit. these roads can also be steep, winding, and in ill repair so plan accordingly.

there are a few off-shore islands which can be reached by ferry boat, but other than walking or biking, I think I've covered all modes of transport in Taiwan. I'm pretty sure you're tired of me using the words "clean" and "affordable" and "organized" so I'll just reiterate one last time: it really is easy to get around here using public transit - even if you can't read or speak Mandarin.

this post is the second in a series of tips for visiting Taiwan. for more information, please see:
part 1: a guide on what to pack
part 2: a guide on how to travel [this post]
part 3: a guide on where to go + what to see

part 4: a guide on what to expect

visiting Taiwan: a guide on what to pack

what do I pack for my trip to Taiwan?

like packing for any kind of travel - what you bring to Taiwan will depend on the season you visit, where on the island you stay, and what activities you plan to do. over the next few weeks in this series on tips for visiting Taiwan, I plan to address all these issues. for today, we are starting with what should be in your suitcase.

for the past 3 years I have been living as an expat in Taiwan. I've traveled to various parts of the island, experienced earthquakes and typhoons, lived in the city, scootered through the country, hiked mountains, and swum in the sea. and you're about to benefit from my experience - because I remember all the wardrobe failures and successes of these adventures.

the weather in Taiwan

summer in Taiwan can last from May to mid-October. weather is typically hot and humid, with temperatures in the low to mid 90's F / 32-35 C [that feel like low to mid 100's F / up to 38 C once humidity is factored in.] you can expect cooler wind and rain when there's a typhoon nearby - but mostly it will just be hot. if you visit Taiwan during summer, prepare to sweat.

fall is slightly cooler, with temperatures in the 70's F / 20-25 C and less humidity. Taiwan's autumn can last from October to end of December. [yes, I've worn shorts on Thanksgiving and had Christmas be 75F / 23C and sunny.] daytime temperatures can fluctuate between pleasant and warm, though the nights can quickly get chilly. colder weather does sometimes come through, so the later in the year you visit, the warmer the layers you'll want to bring.

winter in Taiwan can be deceptively cold. while usually in the 50-60F / 10-15 C range, it can drop into the 40's F / 5-8 C. parts of the country are humid, rainy, and windy which can be bone-chilling if you aren't prepared. many of the locals will sport puffy winter coats, boots and gloves. another thing to note is that many buildings in Taiwan do not have central heating. thankfully, winter only lasts from January to mid-March.

spring is mostly mild but sometimes wet. from March to beginning of May the weather can vary in temperature: one day you'll be in shorts, the next jeans and a light jacket. you should pack a range of items that can take you from 60F to 80F / 15 to 27 C and back again. the humidity will start to rise and sometimes the rain can pour for a few days in a row.

one last note: obviously, the further south you are on the island the higher the temperatures are. you can even go to the beach in January down in Kenting, so bring your swimsuit and lighter layers if you plan to travel there.

dress like a local, maybe

girls and women in Taiwan seem to dress in a way that accentuates their best feature: legs. you will see a lot of flowy, girly tops paired with tiny shorts or tight skinny pants, feminine bows and glittery heels, crop tops with long sheer skirts. some women will look dressy and some will be wearing t-shirts. you will rarely see spaghetti straps, deep v-necks, or cleavage. that being said: you may receive some stares if you show a lot of shoulder... but it may also be because you just look like a foreigner.

men wear everything from business suits to basketball shorts and t-shirts. I think men are judged less on appearance here than women are [like most places, unfortunately] and if you are a foreign-looking man this is especially true. my brother wore gym shorts the entire 2 weeks he was here and no one batted an eyelash. granted, we didn't go anywhere fancy. but for touring around town and most restaurants you can just wear whatever.

there are a few places [night clubs or high end restaurants] where people should dress up, but Taiwan is a mostly casual place. though in general, Taiwanese will wear more clothing than you. they will wear long sleeves or pants while you are sweating in shorts, and bring out the winter jackets when it's 65F. most women will carry parasols or wear light jackets to avoid excess sun exposure. you can do this if you like - but I've decided that I would rather be comfortable than try to blend in.

tops

it's not just fashion - in summer, light and breezy tops will help you stay cool. fitted cotton t-shirts will simply cling and show your sweat marks, so loose styles will be your friend. pack extra shirts in summer or plan to wash your sweaty ones and hang dry. sleeveless styles will be useful from May to September, while short sleeves are a good idea year round. you can bring light layers to go over in cooler weather, or wear alone. during late fall and winter you should bring some long sleeves, and a sweater or sweatshirt.

bottoms

you will see people wearing long pants year round in Taiwan. jeans are acceptable almost everywhere. women of all ages in Taiwan wear patterned or brightly colored bottoms, so don't feel compelled to just pack neutrals. however, I would advise bringing shorts for visiting any time spring through fall. in summer, you might want only shorts. in winter you may only want pants, unless you will be traveling in the south of Taiwan [where you will still want a pair of shorts.] the length of your shorts can be whatever you are comfortable with - this is not a conservative country when it comes to legs.

dresses and skirts

while Taiwan is casual, it is also a place where you will never be overdressed. you will see women wearing skirts and dresses while hiking up a mountain trail [this is not an exaggeration.] in warm weather, loose and light dresses will help keep you cool. you will see skirts of all lengths here. some girls wear extremely short dresses [or maybe they are long tops?] with jean shorts just peeking out. one thing to be aware of: the weather can sometimes be windy, or a passing subway train may try to flip your skirt. so you may want shorts under anyway.

shoes

every packing list out there includes "comfortable walking shoes" which you will definitely want for Taiwan. but for the summer months, if you have a comfortable pair of sandals your feet might thank you. I love my TOMs but my feet can get quite sweaty and swollen in the heat. sneakers / running shoes are also a good idea, especially if you plan to take advantage of Taiwan's abundant options for hiking. if you are visiting in winter, I would also suggest a pair of warm socks for wearing around your hotel since many floors here are tiled.

rain gear

just about any time of year you visit Taiwan, it's going to rain. May and June typically see the most rainy days, and typhoon season [which can bring heavy winds and rain over a short time] runs from June to October. depending on where you are on the island, afternoon rain showers can roll through for a few minutes. carrying a lightweight umbrella might seem like a hassle... until it keeps you from being drenched.

the good news is that most convenience stores will carry cheap rain ponchos if you find yourself stuck in a storm - and there's a 7-11 on nearly every corner. summer may be too warm for rain jackets [unless you are up in the mountains] but fall through spring a waterproof coat is a great idea.

hiking gear

if you're planning to take advantage of any hiking in Taiwan - and you should - be sure to bring what you need. some trails can be done in street clothes and even comfortable sandals, but I recommend workout gear for sweat-wicking and ease of movement. many trails are paved and have seemingly endless stone steps, others are dirt. if there will be tall grasses on your hike you may opt for long pants or sleeves for protection. take an extra layer along as the temperature can drop as the altitude rises, and be sure to check the weather for rain. and of course if you're a pro heading for an overnight trip on the high mountains... well you probably don't need my advice on what gear to bring.

outerwear

aside from a rain jacket, the level of outerwear is going to depend heavily on the season. in summer you may want a light sweater or cardigan for air conditioned restaurants and trains. a light trench, anorak, sweatshirt, or jean jacket will do for fall and spring. winter may find you wanting a fleece or waterproof shell, puffy vest or even full coat. when in doubt, bring things that can be layered easily. I would also bring layers warmer than you think you need if you plan to be riding on a scooter - the wind factor will make you chilled easily.

undergarments

whatever you normally pack for travel should be fine, erring on the side of comfort and breathability. in summer I would recommend bringing a few extra pairs, as you will likely return from excursions soaked through with sweat and want to get dry. real Taiwan moment: sometimes, in August, I have to wring sweat out of my bra when I get home. you should also consider bringing a swimsuit in case you want to take a dip in the ocean [Taiwan IS an island, after all] or explore one of the famous hot springs.

toiletry items

if you aren't picky, you should be able to buy everything you need at any 7-11 in Taiwan. brands such as Colgate, Listerine, Dove, Biore, Revlon, and Neutrogena can be found in any beauty store. in the past three years the selection of items available in Taiwan has wildly expanded. but I would advise you to bring items that you feel more comfortable having "your" brand of: deodorant, tampons, and sunscreen choices can vary greatly depending how large of a city you are in. also be careful when buying any kind of cream, sunscreen or lotion - many in Taiwan contain whitening agents or chemicals.

other items

I think it goes without saying that you'll want to bring your camera. a journal for documenting your trip, something to read, any essential medications. if you have food allergies or diet restrictions, some granola bars or familiar snacks would be a good idea. even if you visit during rainy season, you'll likely want some kind of sun protection [hat, glasses] since the island is bisected by the Tropic of Cancer.

electronic plugs

Taiwan runs on 110-120 voltage, which is the same as the US and Canada. if you are coming from there, most of your chargers and appliances should be just fine. where you may find issues in some buildings - not all outlets have three prongs. three to two prong adapters are easily found in any hardware or grocery store, but of course you can bring your own. if you are using items with different voltage requirements, you may want to bring a transformer/converter with you.

internet access

wifi is available in many places - most hotels and cafes will provide you with a free login when asked. you can also register for free wifi in Taipei's public spaces [several parks, and most MRT stations.] register online for a wifi login before your visit to Taipei, or take your passport in person to any hotel on this list.

you can also get a simcard with a large chunk of data for decently cheap. phone service in Taiwan is less expensive than the US and more focused on data, and has great 4G coverage. having Google translate just might be worth it. also good to know: Taiwan is not China, and almost all websites are available. the exception to this is some tv and video sites will not play in Taiwan due to copyright laws. [most people get around this with a VPN] but Netflix, YouTube and Facebook work just fine.

while this isn't a detailed packing list, I hope I've given you a sense of what should be in your bag when you come to visit Taiwan [because, you're coming to visit right?] stay tuned over the next few weeks where I'll give you guidelines on where in Taiwan you should visit, how to get around the island, and what to expect as a visiting foreigner.

please let me know in the comments if you have any specific questions I haven't covered here, or a topic you'd like to know more about in the next few weeks.

this post is the first in a series of tips for visiting Taiwan. for more information, please see:
part 1: a guide on what to pack [this post]
part 2: a guide on how to travel
part 3: a guide on where to go + what to see

part 4: a guide on what to expect